Mossel Bay – Heidelberg – Hermanus

We continued along the Garden Route towards Hermanus, a small coastal town. On the way in Heidelberg we had a cappuccino in a nice café/pizzeria. Passed many cattle farms and partly dust-dry meadows and fields.

In Hermanus we slept in the “24 on High”, a cute apartment in the city. We took a sunset stroll along the promenade. Many dassies were scurrying in the rocks. Cormorants were enjoying the last rays of sun on the cliffs. Two humpback whales swam a little farther out in the bay. Several sculptures lined the roadside.

For dinner today we had simply “cold cuisine”, cheese, grapes and fresh bread from Heidelberg.

Silke

Mossel Bay

I had another look at the parrots this morning, some of which are unfortunately plucking their feathers badly. However, all the animals are lovingly cared for and some parrots can even talk.

Cat Tini got some more petting and then we went on to Mosselbay. We are staying in a cute apartment (La Vue) with a sea view today.

We went shopping and to the beach for a bit. In our small kitchen today we baked spinach with feta cheese and mini pizzas. Eaten during the sunset on the balcony. Afterwards we planned and booked a little bit.

Silke

Knysna – Mossel Bay

At 10:00 am we drove further along the Garden Route towards Mossels Bay, where we stayed today at the Phantom Croft in a nice Guest Lodge. The owner Candice was born in Cape Town and has been living here in the country for 12 years now. She runs a parrot sanctuary next to the apartments. Many animals are fostered here. Cute cats also have a home here such as Tini, an 18 year old male.

He is very cuddly! In the evening we prepared a potato casserole.

Silke

Knysna – Township – Thesens Island – Buffalo Bay Beach

We booked a guided tour with a local guide through the township of Knysna via Peggy`s Art + Tours. Poloko / PK , a young man, guided us through the “other” Africa. Approx 47,000 of Knysna`s 68,000 inhabitants live here in mostly poor conditions.

One township section is inhabited by black Africans and one by colored Africans (Colored People). Unemployment is extremely high and alcohol consumption is a major problem. Government housing projects (Mandela House) offer houses for South Africans, but these are subject to conditions (e.g. income limits). Sometimes there are long waiting lists. As far as we understand, people only have to pay for electricity. Many people in the township live in self-built huts made of wood and corrugated iron, which are miniature and offer little privacy. Only the toilet is partitioned off. “Showers” are taken one after the other in the washing tub.

A fire destroyed many of these shelters in 2017. The township has schools, a hospital, a fire department, … it’s almost a city within a city. There are also police officers living there. However, according to the PK, a separate guard is not necessary, since disagreements are settled among themselves and there are something like local community spokesmen who keep order in the neighborhoods. Fences are only used by those who are richer and where property must be protected. In the small corner shops, if necessary, a tomato can be bought individually and written to at the end of the month.

We bought a big box of cookies and then went to a preschool for young children sponsored by Peggy, an artist and store owner who sadly recently passed away. The children are currently being cared for in a church hall because the container, which was already finished, could not yet be placed in its intended location. 33 children can learn, eat and play there. Peggy had always sponsored 50% of her income for this project, hopefully a solution can be found for the future. PK told us that most of the parents of these children are still children themselves and while the little ones are being cared for, they go to school themselves.

Life in the township is mostly hard or poor, but people make the best of it and many live here consciously because they have their roots here and to be useful to the community. After the tour we went back to “white” Africa , to Thesens Island and had lunch in a restaurant overlooking the lagoon. Afterwards we visited Buffalo Bay Beach, a wide sandy beach with an imposing rock in the water. On the way back we noticed a turtle on the shoulder. A local resident said she knew the animal and carried it to an adjacent garden. In the evening we had barbecue again, because it tasted so good yesterday.

Silke

Knysna – Heads Lookout

We slept in and had a nice breakfast! Then we drove to the Heads Lookout and walked around a bit. The “Heads” are two cliffs separated only by the lagoon as a gate to the sea and guard so to speak the city of Knysna. The view from there is phenomenal. You can look far out over the ocean and into the lagoon towards the town. There are also some great villas there to admire. We met at the viewpoint Alessa and Thomas from Hanover and exchanged with the two determined 1h. They came from the opposite direction along the Garden Route and were also already in other corners of Africa.

After that we went to see the city a little bit and went shopping. Today we had a nice barbecue with veggieburger for me and ostrich steak for Reiner.

Silke

19-05-12 Storms River Mouth Camp – Knysna

We slept a little longer and then first checked out. Afterwards we went to the laundry. While the washing machine was running we could watch the waves and the beach.A whale swam by about 100 m from shore. Dassies played in the rocks.

Huge fountains of spray splashed over the rocks. Beautiful sunshine made our laundry dry quickly. A seagull swooped by as we ate our cheese crispbread. Then we continued again along the N2 (Garden Route) to Knysna, where we stayed in a nice apartment (Footprints of Knysna). Although today is Mother’s Day and Sunday, many stores are open and we could still shop for dinner. We’re having broccoli-cauliflower-carrot vegetables in cheese sauce with oven bread!

Silke

19-05-11 Otter Trail – Day 5 André Hut – Nature ‘s Valley 10.8 Km

We started walking at a little after 8:00 and walked over rocks “dry” feet across the Klip River. Then it was a steep climb up to the cliff edge to warm up! But then most of today’s hike was along the plateau via a dirt road. Beautiful views and gorgeous flowers.

I definitely needed my sun hat today too! Beautiful sunshine. Then came the view of Nature ‘s Valley and the steep descent.

The beach is really beautiful. We walked through the sand for a bit and then ducked back into the forest. We continued shaded for another 4 km. We had to cross another small river and this time the difficulty was not to give the curious monkeys an opportunity to snatch socks or cameras or similar things. A deer crossed our path and we saw several more parrots high in the trees. At the end of the trail at De Vasselot Restcamp, which we reached at 3:11 pm, we proudly and happily each received a certificate.

An acquaintance of the ranger drove us for 550 Rand back to the Storms River Mouth Camp, where we rented a Forest Hut again for today. Since we did not have so much cash with us, we made a detour to the ATM 6 km away. In the camp we weighed our backpacks again. In the end we brought back 2.5 kg of food. And we could have saved one kilo of clothes each. Snorkel equipment and shaving gear were also superfluous. But afterwards one is always smarter. In any case, the Otter Trail is a very special experience and for us a highlight on our world trip.

Silke

19-05-10 Otter Trail – Day 4 Oakhurst Hut – André Hut 13.8 Km

Mega exhausting! From 7:00 am with time pressure on my neck climbed over rock walls and everything hurt! At km 6 I wanted to turn around. (There are Escape Routes, but there you have to walk 3-4 km through the bush to have internet connection or phone). So grit your teeth and get through! Time pressure because you have to cross the Bloukrans River at Km 10 1/2 h after low tide. (today 13:57 o’clock) There the water is “only” waist high. Otherwise it is very dangerous because the surf can wash you up against the sharp cliffs! Sim and his young men were waiting for us there, because the hikers are supposed to help each other if necessary. The guys kindly carried my backpack across. (Reiner would have walked twice otherwise).

On the other side we went steeply up the rock walls and 3.8 km further to André ‘s Hut!

The last few steps I used my walking sticks like crutches!!! (-; We didn’t feel like having a campfire today and used the gas stove to boil water for noodle soup. The little Jägermeister (with hot water and sugar) revived us a bit. The open-air shower here is especially nice, with a great view of the beach and sunset.

In the cottage, we only just noticed the candle holders on the walls, as there was still a candle in them. Better than tea lights! Of course, the hiking trail was also beautiful. Fabulous viewpoints and especially many unusual flowers. And “our” low tide was really good too. Some hikers have to start at 4 or 5 to be at Bloukrans River for low tide! And the weather was also just right!

Silke