Salar de Uyuni

After our rather meager breakfast, we went to the town to draw cash. Only one ATM still had cash because of the carnival days. Accordingly long was the queue. But after half an hour we had our money and could go on the planned tour to the salt desert and the salt lake Uyuni.

Yesterday on the train we met Sarina (ex-Bremer) and Carlos (Chilean) with their daughters Nayeli and Nagore and spontaneously joined their jeep tour 3 days from Uyuni to San Pedro. We were picked up at 10:30 am from our hotel and then we went first to the locomotive cemetery. Many old steam locomotives stand in the middle of the desert and rust away. Behind them the panoramic landscape of the Andes.

After that, we drove to the huge salt lake, which is usually dry at this time of year. However, our jeep drove through knee-deep water, because there have been very heavy rains in February. The salt crust is up to 80 meters thick and there is water underneath. Once in the salt we tried to take pictures with optical illusion, because this is especially possible here. This was more difficult than we thought, because the depth of field has to be taken into account. In the end, though, we managed to get some nice photos.

After that, we went to a water level spot where you can take a funny shot of your reflection in the water and the clouds. The sunset on the lake with a bottle of “Beck ‘s” was also very spectacular. Lunch and dinner is included and I got omelet with vegetables. They also had potato soup, chips and chicken for the non-vegetarians.

We sleep tonight in a surprisingly cozy salt hotel in a 6-bed room.

Silke

Oruro – Uyuni

Very comfortably we traveled today, from 14:30 to 21:20, with the “Expreso del Sur” from Oruro to Uyuni. It runs only Tuesday and Friday. And then there is a second train on Wednesday and Sunday that runs the route from 19:00. These are the only passenger trains that leave from Oruro!

We sat first class in padded armchairs with plenty of legroom. There were blankets and fans. There were several movies in Spanish playing on a TV in the car. There was also a piece of prepackaged cake and a tetra pack of juice. The second class differs from the first with smaller, not so comfortable seats, but was also all nice and clean. In the evening we went to eat in the train restaurant (40 seats). The steward cooked everything fresh on an open flame ( just peeled potatoes). There was a good crowd. We got the last omelet with vegetables and the last 2 cans of beer. Was delicious.

The train ride itself offered a great view of the landscape. Large expanses of water next to the track where the train flushed flamingos, dogs racing the train, lots of llamas that couldn’t be bothered. The mountains in the background, steppe, vastness and a beautiful sunset. We also met a colorful mix of very nice people on the train. Japanese, Canadians, Chinese, Austrians, Argentinians, Chileans and an ex-Bremer. Maybe we will see one or the other again on our upcoming 3-day trip.

Silke

Oruro – Dia del Diablo y del Moreno

The Monday of the carnival in Oruro is dedicated to the Diablada and Morenada. These are traditional dances, which should remind of the colonial times of the Spaniards. Indians and later also African slaves had to do forced labor in the silver mines at that time and were driven there chained together (rattles). The Morenada is said to commemorate a slave uprising in which a beautiful slave girl distracted the slave driver and got him drunk. As a result, the caporal (slave driver) had to stomp grapes. The story is re-enacted with costumes in the folklore festival square in front of the cathedral “Iglesia del Socavon”. Also the fight between the angelic army around Archangel Michael, against the devils (or deadly sins) is performed dancing. All in honor of the Virgin of Socavon (patron saint of miners).


In the afternoon, the dancers say goodbye to the Virgin. They enter the church dancing without masks and ask for strength and success for the coming year. We had to admire the condition of the carnival dancers. After three days of almost dancing uphill in heavy costumes and sometimes adventurous shoes!!!

 

We took the cable car in between to the “Monumento a la Virgen del Socavon” , a large statue of the Madonna on a mountain. From up there you have a great view over the city. We also had a look at the church. Very beautiful with blue sky and many angels. There was also a devil mask with lots of fresh flowers at the feet of the Virgin at the altar. In front of the church there was a kind of fair. Among other things, whole cakes were auctioned off like in Hamburg at the fish market. We ate baked bananas and corn on the cob. After dark we took a cab back to our hotel.

Silke

La Paz – Oruro – Carnaval

At 6:00 am the bus started for Oruro – 10:00 am arrival. Our hotel Oruro Inn is located not far from the new bus terminal, between unfinished houses and streets, just outside the city. Here in Oruro, Carnival is celebrated in a big way. Practically 3 days continuously. We took a cab into the city and watched the spectacle from 13:00 to 21:30. We sat on a grandstand on the front bench. Lots of brass bands, fantastic colorful costumes and great dancing! There are only foot or dance groups and bands in the parade. Some girls wear boots with dangerously high heels. Many costumes look insanely heavy. Sometimes there are groups of 100 or more people jumping back and forth in formation. During breaks, the kids splash each other with foam cans. Sometimes even innocent bystanders get splashed!

Many vendors come by the stands with cotton candy, beer, cake, selfie sticks, etc. We sat with very nice, fun Bolivians. Reiner and his “neighbor” bought each other a beer.

Today’s parade is scheduled to continue until 5:00 a.m. tomorrow morning.

Unfortunately, we got a little cold and after getting up early we were tired. A cab brought us back to the hotel.

Silke

Puno – La Paz

The bus to Bolivia La Paz left this morning at 6:45. The border crossing was in Kasani. We walked from the Peruvian border post to the Bolivian one. Just past the border in Copacabana we had to change buses and wait two hours for a smaller one.

We passed the time with a game of Carcassonne. Reiner won twice. A few kilometers further, everyone had to get off the bus again. We were supposed to cross Lake Titicaca by ferry. The bus crossed on an extra raft. Each passenger had to buy a ticket for 2 Bolivianos. But since we hadn’t changed any currency yet and the ticket seller didn’t want to take USD, we stood there with our USD and couldn’t get on the boat! A Japanese tourist spontaneously gave us the 4 BOL (0.50 EUR), so the trip could continue. While driving through the Bolivian capital we saw a carnival procession on the other side of the street.

So we arrived at 18:00 in La Paz bus terminal. Actually we should be there already at 15:00. Our hostel is just around the corner from the bus terminal. We did not find a restaurant. There was noodle soup for Reiner and banana and Pringels for me.

Silke

Cusco – Puno – Lake Titicaca – Floating Islands

Today we went from Cusco to Puno with a very comfortable double-decker coach of the company “Cruz del Sol”. There was even a cheese roll and tea included. Puno is located directly on Lake Titicaca, the largest freshwater lake in South America, at 3812 meters above sea level. Right after we checked in at the hotel “Maya Inn” at 3:45pm, we went to the port. There we took a 2 hour trip to the floating islands of the Urus in Lake Titicaca. Several families live there on islands tied together from totora reeds. The traditional boats are also made of reeds and resemble gondolas only as catamarans with cat or puma heads.

We were driven to the main island in such a “Peru Mercedes”. The houses are also made of reeds, clay stoves are fired with dried reed stalks and stand on stones. Day tourists are welcomed with pleasure and the inhabitants tell ( in Spanish ) about the history and construction of their village.

There is even a marketplace of sorts with a grocery store, several souvenir stands and a restaurant. Back on land, we bought avocados, tomatoes, carrots and mango at the market and made a raw vegetable salad at the hotel.

Silke

Machu Picchu Day 2

We got up at 4:30am to catch the 5:30am bus because we had booked a ticket today to Machu Picchu including Montana Machu Picchu with admission at 7:00am. The morning was very rainy and on our climb (lots of stairs) we saw next to nothing of Machu Picchu town.

We were also more or less in a cloud at the top. Around noon it cleared up a little , and we could already see Machu Picchu from above during the descent. We “bribed” a llama with a cracker and it looked with into our camera.

Around 1:00 we took the bus back downhill to Aguas Calientes and picked up our luggage at the hotel. Train ride to Ollantaytambo and from there in the Collectivo to Cusco. Unfortunately, we were not dropped off at the hotel as promised, but had to walk another 3 blocks uphill. On the way we bought avocado, pineapple, cheese and wine for a nice dinner in our room.

Silke

Machu Picchu

Today we explored the long lost ruined city of the Incas “Machu Picchu”. We went up by bus from Aguas Calientes. At the top, the first thing we did was get a stamp in our passport! At 12:00 we had our admission appointment. On site, we hired an English-speaking guide who accompanied us and a Norwegian couple through the city. Machu Picchu has been built in the 15th century terraced at an altitude of 2430 m by the Incas and abandoned about 100 years later for unknown reasons. Today only a few llamas live there. The buildings are located on a ridge between the peaks “Huaya Picchu” and “Machu Picchu”. There are different tickets. Today we only visited the city. We had the best weather and a great view.

It is amazing how precisely the huge rocks were set into each other and how well the walls are still preserved. The water supply and sewage system are also still intact. Since the Incas worshipped the natural elements, or had a sun god, the temple is oriented to the sunrise on the horizon between the peaks. On a given day, the sun shines through the window at sunrise. There is also a stone on the highest point of the city complex, which can be used to determine the cardinal points. Overall, it is a fascinating, majestic, almost unreal place. After the tour we walked around on our own for a while and then started the descent about 1700 m down the stairs to Aguas Calientes. There we were still beautiful Italian food.

 

PS. Before the entrance to Machu Picchu one is informed that there are no toilets inside the facility. One may also not go out in between times on the toilet in front of the gate. This could certainly be regulated differently, with 2 to 4 hours of sightseeing or hiking. The entrance fee for tourists is 152 – 200 Soles pP, depending on which points or peaks you want to visit. The guide could be negotiated down to 20 USD. The bus ride costs 12,50 USD pP. one way uphill or downhill. From Cusco to Aguas Calientes again there and back (bus and train) 100 USD pP.. All in all almost as expensive as Disneyland!

Silke