19-6-11 Linyanti – Xakanaxa

After the fright of the last night we didn’t sleep so well and at 6:30 a.m., after the sun had risen, we first went around the car in search of our tarp. A few monkeys and birds accompanied us. Many footprints of elephants, monkeys, cats? and us, we could recognize.

Unfortunately, the cover was nowhere to be found, so we are now “topless”. We took our clothesline as a backup.

Our way to Xakanaxa Camp was exclusively on unpaved roads, some of which rather resembled dirt roads with huge potholes. Giraffes, wildebeest, ibex and many elephants could be seen.

We were also greeted by a large gray toröö at today’s campsite, which we reached just before sunset at 5:45pm! Hopefully they will leave our tent alone tonight! We quickly made a few sandwiches and then climbed into our cave.

Silke

06-10./11. extra night report – elephant visit

At about 23:00 o’clock we woke up by loud noises. A herd of several big elephants had surrounded our car with roof tent! They cracked branches and took our tent cover off the roof. It was swung around and eventually dragged along! They felt the tent walls with their trunks. One elephant put his head on the second packed roof tent and fiddled with our tent window. At times the car was really rocking. The creepiest part was the noises!

Fortunately, our tent remained intact. At the second tent the cover was damaged. After about 2 hours of grumbling, the spook was over. We did not find our cover even after a long search this morning.

Silke

06-10 Chobe National Park – Kasane – Linyanti

We asked at the park entrance for free campsites in the national park. Savuti, our favorite, was booked out. In Linyanti, we snagged an overnight stay (100 USD).

The “roads” are rather deep sand dunes and for the 180 Km we needed 7 hours. On the last 20 Km we got stuck in the deep sand. Reiner left again air pressure from the tires. Two Botswana park employees, who just passed by with their truck (by the way, the only vehicle that met us on the last 100 km!) helped to shovel the wheels free.

They gave us the tip to take a parallel road in the bush, because there would not be so deep sand. The road would rather get worse. So we first had to go back 7 km and take a sneak path through the bushes to get to said path. Somewhere along the way a thick branch had wedged itself into the rear bumper and bent it a bit. Shortly after sunset we reached our destination, a campsite with no fence and a fabulous view!

Which, unfortunately, we could enjoy only briefly. We were not hungry anymore.

Silke

Kasane – Chobe River Safari

We slept in and had breakfast. Then we moved to Thebe River Lodge Campsite to have a barbecue for the third night. In the Shoprite supermarket next door we bought fresh food and prepared a small lunch. Then at 2:30pm we were picked up by Wild Cars and Guides and driven by jeep to the boat dock. Mitch, our captain and guide took us and four older South Africans for a three hour cruise on the Chobe River National Park between Namibia and Botswana. Wonderful! We saw huge crocodiles, iguanas, a bee nest high in a tree, hippos, elephants, buffalo, kingfisher, storks and geese, …. . The highlight was a bank where three hippos were lying in the mud.

Large and miniature elephants joined in, a stork and a spoonbill fished around, and then ibex and buffalo also joined the picture. The sunset was also beautiful from the water.

However, you are not alone on the river as many different boats start at the same time. Back at our campsite we made a barbecue and let the Whitsunday end comfortably.

Silke

Thebe River Safaris – Botswana – Zimbabwe – Victoria Falls

At 7:00 am we were picked up at the gate of our accommodation by “Cars and Guides”. At 7:35 am we reached the border. The exit from Botswana went quickly, at the border control to Zimbabwe there was already a long queue in front of the two counters. For the entry Europeans need a visa. The 2-day visa you get directly there for 350 Pula / 25 Euro pP. After about an hour we continued to a helicopter launch site and viewpoint of the Victoria Falls. Esther and Tamara, two German tourists, started there for a sightseeing flight. (150 USD pP). After a photo stop we drove on to the Victoria Falls. The falls are great to look at and you get pretty close to the edge. The height of the falls is 107 m at the highest point.

A path of about 1.7 km leads along 16 viewing points to the view of the railroad bridge to Zambia, from which some adrenaline junkies have bungee jumped (Tamara too!;-))We got well wet on our walk. The spray is sometimes so strong that you can only hear the water masses and not see. On the opposite edge, in the water were some people with nets in gear. That looked not harmless. In the jungle on the Zimbabwean side were monkeys on the way. One came dangerously close to a man’s sandwich. A few ibex and warthogs were grazing along the way. We had another coffee in the park restaurant and were picked up again at 14:00. Together with Tamara and Esther we had a good chat with a coke on the terrace of the luxurious “Victoria Falls Hotel” until we started our return trip. This time a bit faster, because only two stamps had to be put into the passport. After another “shoe sole disinfection” we were back in Botswana. As dinner we cooked ourselves mustard party with boiled potatoes. At the end of the day we played another round of Carcassonne.

Silke

Kasane Botswana

At Bush Camp Kwando (by the way it consists of 4 campsites directly at the river and only 2 were occupied) we went early in the morning to the lookout point and over a bridge to a small island. Hippos we heard all night and in the morning, but in the dense reeds they were not to be seen. Instead we observed many beautiful birds. A woodpecker, a go-away bird, weeping drongo, lesser bee-eater, Marico sunbird, Angola butterfly finch and the Red-billed Hornbill. Wetland – a birders paradise! Then after a nice breakfast we drove on. Without any incidents we crossed the border to Botswana. At the border you have to pay for the car Road Permits for Botswana (about 8 Euro). Then you have to drive through a water ditch, get out and disinfect the soles of your shoes in a bath. We were also asked if we wanted to bring in fruit or meat. In Botswana you are welcomed right at the border station by two huge Baobab – trees.

Monkeys hopped across the road, elephant dung lays around, and warthogs run through town in Kasane. Today we had peach with vanilla sauce for dinner.

Silke

Rundu – Police operation Mukwe – Bush Camp Kwando

Today a peacock, a rooster and two alpacas kept us company during breakfast. Then we left in the direction of the Caprivi Game Reserve. We stopped at a mud house and asked the resident if we could take a picture.

In a moment there were 4 children watching with interest. These kids were friendly and laughed a lot. We gave them something else to snack on.

Every now and then you pass through a police checkpoint. They look at the driver’s license and the vehicle sticker. About 3 km behind such a checkpoint, near Mukwe, several kids jumped in front of our car on the road, so we had to drive slowly. They wanted something and threatened us with stones. Since we didn’t stop, they threw the stones at the car. We have a thick dent with paint damage and again lucky that it was not the window. Since we knew that the police was behind us on the road, we turned around and reported the incident. Two plainclothes officers drove with us to catch the “perpetrators” in the act. But since the guys probably expected it, they didn’t show up. The policemen assured us that they would talk to the parents, and we drove on. The throwing of stones happens more often, because here in the camp it also happened to Dutch tourists the day before. Hopefully the insurance will cover it. Our campsite is idyllically located directly on the Kwando River and we watched several hippos splashing around at sunset. For dinner we had potatoes with butternut squash in coconut milk curry.

Silke

Onguma – Rundu

After a hearty breakfast we continued to Rundu. Once again on tarred roads. Here you can see a bit more trees and bushes. In Grootfontein there was a big construction site, so we took our break a bit further along the road. Palm trees and huge termite mounds, which partly look like sculptures are on the left and right of the road.

Shortly before Rundu there are many small villages, where people live partly in round mud huts with thatched roofs, in the simplest conditions. Many people (including children) were on the road with containers to get water. There were some stalls on the side of the road. We bought two small carved elephants. In Rundu we refueled the car – 102 liters/1444,50 N$. Then we did some shopping and drove over a 7 km long sand road to Kaisosi River Lodge, our campsite today. Here one looks directly on the Okavango – river. For dinner we had vegetable allsorts with cheese sauce.

Silke